May 13, 2011

Harry Angelo, Models of 1923: Worth


Just a little eye candy tonight from the venerable House of Worth. I close this series with the last two plates from the Harry Angelo Catalogue.  It's been fun. Brushed up the research skills. Learned a lot about 1920s Paris fashion houses.  Looked at pretty pictures. And if we are indeed the sum of all our experience, I have added a few bits in the fashion section of life. 
Worth, like Patou, is far too large a canvas for this blog. 
To summarize: 
The design heads of the House of Worth ( business heads are different):
1858 - 1895: Charles Frederick Worth
1895 - 1918 Jean-Phillipe Worth
1918 - 1935 Jean-Charles Worth
1935 - 1952 Roger Worth
1952 - 1954 Maurice Worth
In 1954 it is bought by Paquin, then closed in 1956. The house was on Rue de la paix unitl 1936, when it moved to 120 Rue du Fauborg St.-Honore. 
The London branch opened in 1911, and operated under separate management as of 1936,then stayed open under separate owner ship from 1946 - 1967. 
So these two 1923 models would be designs produced while Jean-Charles Worth was the head designer.  From the Costume Institute: 
"Jean-Charles Worth joined the House of Worth around 1910 and became chief designer after World War I when his uncle, Jean-Philippe Worth, retired. He transitioned the Worth style into a new era of simpler lines and silhouettes with minimal trim indicative of the 1920s and 30s. He also moved the House into the more practical styles reflecting the decrease in noble patrons. Jean-Charles retired in 1935, passing the design reins to his nephew, Roger Worth."

Worth no. 20
"Gown of sandalwood satin with complete overbody of embroidered net. The floral motif of the embroidery is worked in beige blending into brown at the border. the slight blouse of the bodice is held by a decorative girdle of shirred tinsel ribbon and jewels, which completely encircles the waist. " 

Worth no. 21
"A three piece costume of black satin brocade with front drapery. the slightly bloused jacket fastens with decorative jet buckle and shows a narrow strap collar. The bodice of the dress is made of Angelo novelty lace over beige georgette, and had wide sleeves."

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