May 1, 2011

Harry Angelo, Models of 1923: Renee


Renee is a bit of a mystery. She dropped out of press coverage in 1931, most likely a victim of the Depression. However, she was a young woman only 34 years old. I do wonder if she joined another house as premier or directrice? Balenciaga's premier was Mlle. Renee d'Esling. I wonder.... If anyone knows more about her, please let men know!  After this: a tiny bit on Worth, and then Germaine.


Mlle. Renée,  started as a premier at the House of Mme. Cheruit. Born in 1893, she was only 22 when the New York Times wrote in 1915 : “Mlle. Renee may one day be the Mme. Cheruit of the Place Vendome. She has the same simple taste, just as personal in its own way as the greater and more famous woman. She is 22 years old, and we already owe to her the mode of the open-neck blouse, as well as the lovely flaring lingerie collars and organdie gowns which everybody copied from this house last season”. By 1916, she was referred to as the designer for Cheruit, and in 1917, called “the moving spirit at Cheruit”. She had her own house by 1919 at 50, Avenue de Champs-Elysées and received coverage at least in the US papers on a par with the top houses.  So by the time these 1923 models appeared, she was well established.

L’Officiel covered her from their inception in 1921 until 1928. In 1928, she joined her house with Marthe as  Marthe & Renée, at 2, rue Volney. In 1931 - 1932 they were located at  68 Rue Pierre-Charron. The house continued to appeal to American buyers as late as 1930s, when “authentic replicas of Spring 1931 models by Goupy, Marthe et Renee, Lucille...” and others  were advertised in the Jan. 1,1931 Los Angeles Times.The house continued to receive press coverage through the late 20s and into 1931, but appears to have closed in the very early 30s.

 Renee No. 28
"Entire gown of  black cire embroidered insertions on silk net. A slightly draped effect gives a long waist line. The skirt which is also draped at one side is caught with a large bow over the left hip".
Renee no. 32
" Simple afternoon dress of navy blue crepe with embroidered straw dots, in natural color. Draped side panel is finished with plain blue border of self material. The bodice is slightly bloused in back and a looped panel of plain blue is centered on straight line skirt".

 Renee no 31
"An afternoon frock of harvest colored crepe romaine with girdle and puffed trimming on the sleeves made of open ribbon embroidery in self color. The bodice is slightly bloused in back and an apron sash ties in the center of the skirt. Fine shirring trims the over panels on the skirt."

 Renee no 30
" Cocoa colored crepe romaine dress in straight line treatment. the skirt is finely pleated and the entire bodice as well as the sleeves achieve a large blocked design by grouped tucks running at right angles."
Renee no 29
" A straight line frock of black crepe romaine trimmed by alternating pleats with cired braid. This treatment achieves a checkered border design on the skirt. A side panel of self material drops from the right hip and is balanced by a romaine bow on the other. Overlapping squares of the cired braid form a girdle."

No comments: