May 7, 2011

Harry Angelo, Models of 1923: Germaine


Germaine, 24 Rue Pasquier
Let’s see: there’s Germaine Lecomte, Germaine Monteil, Germaine Krebs ( AKA Mme Gres), Germaine Bailly, L.S. Germaine Page. 

And then there is this Germaine. Not as well known, this was a short lived house. She was  located at 24 Rue Pasquier in the 1920s. The one label available online is in the Doyle New York Auction results, and it reads: Germaine Couture/Germaine Coubit/Marthe Charlier/24 Rue Pasquier/Paris/Tel. Gutemb. 05-77.  Marthe Charlier is a complete mystery. Both a listing in L’Officiel and the A. L. Tirocchi Gowns records show the name is properly spelled Caubit, not Coubit. 

The first reference in the New York Times is April 7, 1918.  Bonwit Teller showed models in May of that year, along with models from Lanvin, Bernard, Cheruit and Paquin. This house seems to have gone through some changes. In 1918 it’s Germaine of Paris. Then in March and April of 1920, the papers refer to  “the new house of Charlotte and Germaine”. This partnership seems have had some hiccups and was short lived, as by Sept. 1920, the NY Tribune refers to “Charlotte, formerly of Charlotte et Germaine”. But then, on Nov. 21,1921, the New York Times carried an ad for Charlotte et Germaine’s “famous girdles”. From 1921 on, Charlotte is listed in L’Officiel at 55 Ave de Champs-Elysees and Germaine at 24 Rue Pasquier.
In addition to Bonwit Teller and Harry Angelo, models and adaptations were carried in the USA by Kurzman’s Importers, J.M. Gidding, and Gimbel’s. These were advertised in conjunction with models from Jenny, Lanvin, Agnes, Premet, Drecoll, Charlotte, and Renée. A 1924 entry in L‘ Officiel advertised Paris models by Germaine, 24, rue Pasquier, Paris, at Altman’s, New York. While this house is usually shown as Germaine, there is a 1926 listing as Germaine Caubit, 24, rue Pasquier. Perhaps there were just so many Germaines in business they felt they had to differentiate. These listings end after Sept.1928.

The only post 1928 references in L’Officiel, and they may be completely unrelated, are two 1948 advertisements for girdles by Création Germaine Paris 10-12, Avenue de la Porte-de-Saint-Ouen, Paris.

Germaine No 39
" A Dinner gown of bisque georgette with contrasting insertion of the material in jade green. The all over embroidered design is worked in fine gold and bronze stitcheries. The girdle is a handsome arrangement of jade and steel beads. The split front of the skirt reveals an under drop of plain georgette."

 Germaine No 40
"A formal gown of white crepe. Silver lace is used for the yoke and studded rhinestone embroidery forms a panel down the front and outlines the edge of a peplum overskirt. The girdle is made of narrow metal braid to harmonize with the silver yoke."


Sarara Vintage said...

I just found a Germain Couture jacket in excellent condition. I will be listing her and be sure to site your post on the French design house. Thanks!

Past Perfect Vintage Clothing said...

You are very welcome!