Apr 18, 2011

Harry Angelo 1923 Model Gowns: Molyneux (& Patou)


We are coming to the end. Just Germaine, Renee and Worth to go!

Molyneux

This is the house of Capt. Edward Molyneux. A very well regarded house, and an extremely well known one. And another house, like Patou, whose history would cover a full length text. So I will be brief. Molyneux started with Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon, then completed service with the British Army during WWI. He founded his house in 1919 after the war at 14 Rue Royale and later moved to 5 rue Royale, where it stayed until 1950 when Molyneux closed his house in London and Paris due to his fragile eyesight. There were additional locations in Nice and Cannes. In Ways of Fashion, Picken and Miller refer to his clothes as:
“conservative yet distinguished” and “simple clothes, dignified and calm”. From the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum: “Working in luxurious fabrics, he created exquisite pieces for both day and night, his colors of choice being navy, black and beige. His simplistic masterpieces were perfect for the woman who desired to look ‘absolutely right.’”
Molyneux no 19:
A simple black gown with brilliant beaded design of conventionalized flowers. These are worked in all the oriental colors and are its sole ornament. A narrow belt of self material ties at one side and a slight blouse is shown in back."

And the last Patou in the book:

Patou No 12 
"Street dress of navy blue printed silk in red foulard design. Made with straight back and beaded outline in front that gives long waisted effect. Draped panel of self material at left hip is balanced by pleated plain blue panel on the right. Raglan shoulder line is used on long sleeves and fine white organdie finishes the collar and cuffs."

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