Mar 25, 2011

Harry Angelo, Models of 1923: Patou


It is well beyond the scope of this blog to write a full scale write up of the House of Patou. That is a book. There is a boat load of information on Jean Patou available.

Suffice it to say that in the 1920s and 30s, Patou was a dominating influence on fashion, certainly as much as Chanel. Or Vionnet. Born in 1887, he started his house in 1914, but was called up for war service. The first collection was in 1919 at 7 rue St.-Florentin. Eventually there were salons in Cannes, Biarritz, and Monte Carlo. Patou died in 1936, and the influence of the house began to lessen, but in 1948 there were still 300 employees. Raymond Barbas, Patou’s brother-in-law, took over the management of the house on Patou’s death. Marc Bohan was employed as the designer in 1954. When he left for Dior in 1958, Karl Lagerfeld was brought in from Pierre Balmain as designer. Lagerfeld left Patou in 1961. Michael Goma was the last creative director, from 1963 - 1987. Jean-Paul Gaultier and Christian LaCroix both had stints as the assistant designer. The last collection was presented 1987. This house continues today with perfumes.

Patou No. 11
"A street dress of black satin canton with colored Bonaz embroidery giving an eton line to the front and back of the bodice. Fine colored stitching in braid effect edges the inserted front panel of pleated white canton. Black crushed satin is used for a girdle and the round collar is black and white pleated georgette with satin border."

Patou No. 14
"Evening wrap pf Angelo's silver and wool lace showing a perpendicular and bayadere arrangement of the design. The entire garment is lined with silver cloth which is also used for the collar and cuffs. These are a pleated petal arrangement of the fabric.The roses on the collar are deep red and a blending shade of purple."

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