Mar 19, 2011

Harry Angelo Models of 1923: Drecoll


A fine and great house of the early 20th Century, there is a bit of confusion about the founding of the house. But all sources agree that there was first there was the Belgian, Baron Christophe Drécoll, who established a successful dressmaking house in Vienna c. 1896. His designer and business manager were the husband and wife team of Mme. And M. de Wagner, also Belgian. The de Wagners purchased the rights to use the name and/or the house itself, and moved it to Paris where they opened a salon at 4 Place de l’Opera in 1902. Baron Drécoll moved to Berlin where he set up a successful dressmaking concern. The NY Times mentions the Paris house as early as 1907. During WWI, Ch. Drécoll made a point of being a ‘Belgian’ house rather than a Viennese one. The NY Times reported that ‘Vienna’ was removed from the house front in 1914. Ch. Drécoll remained in the Place de l’Opera until 1923/1924 when they moved to 136 Ave des Champs-Élysées, where they stayed until 1928, when the house made its last move to 24 Place Vendome.

Pierre Besancon-de Wagner, the de Wagners’ son-in-law and husband of their daughter Maggy, took over the business administration of the house at their retirement in 1929. The house merged with Beer that year to become Drécoll-Beer, 24 Place Vendome. Most sources state that Maggy Besancon-de Wagner had been designing for the house since the end of WWI. One other, that Mlle. Madeleine, formerly of Madeleine et Madeleine, and a one time designer at Callot and Paquin, became the designer and Edmond Courtot took over the management after the Armistice. Certainly Maggy Besancon-de Wagner moved to her own house, Maggy Rouff in 1929 at the time of the merger with Beer.

In 1931 Drécoll merged with Agnes to become Agnes-Drécoll at 24 Place Vendome with Mde. Havet as Directrice. This house closed in 1963.

Drecoll No. 25
" An afternoon gown of lustrous blue silk, of the Fulgurante type, is combined with Angelo's all radium lace in blue and rubaiyat. The lace is used to form three panels on the skirt and to make the crushed girdle which drops in a looped drape over the left hip".

Drecoll No. 26
" A black satin afternoon gown trimmed in Angelo's black all over lace. The draped sleeves are part of a cape panel which drops from the shoulders in the back and which is held to the figure with a narrow girdle that is laced through the embroidered stomacher on the front. A side drape and bateau neck line are used."

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