Mar 1, 2011

Harry Angelo 1923 Model Gowns: Agnes part 1

Today - more Agnes. We handled an Agnes dress once. It was really lovely. A 1920s dress, but just a bit later than these. Beautifully thought out in a soft gold silk velvet with a rhinestone and bead girdle. But in poor condition. The skirt had Art Deco roses created with velvet appliques and more stones. The label: Mme Havet, Agnes,Haute Couture 7 Rue Auber in the lower right. L'Officiel lists Mme Havet is listed as the directrice of Agnes at 7 Rue Auber as early as 1923, and as the directrice of Agnes-Drecoll at 24 PLace Vendome as late as 1938. However, there are examples of this label at least as early as the Teens online.

Now in the the NY Sun of Sep 26, 1899, Mame Havet and Agnes are given separate write ups. I assume Havet moved to Agnes and was given a place on the label after that.

Additional information: The Sun of Oct. 3,1898 refers to Mme. Agnes as "formerly a designer at the House of Doucet" and that she has started a business of her own recently. Mme. Havet is referred to as "well known for 5 years to a select few only" and announces she will be making her first public exhibit despite having designed for others. Each is mentioned separately and prominently in various US papers until about 1911, after which references are to Mme Agnes.

With that little bit of background, I bring you two more model gowns of 1923 from the House of Agnes, Mme Havet directrice:

Agnes No 8
"Three piece costume developed in gray wool poplin crepe, with bodice and trimmings of printed silk crepe. Three quarter length coat and skirt make extensive use of tailored self straps which partially cover band of printed silk at hem of skirt and on pockets. The bodice is a crushed basque treatment of the silk and the skirt is organ pleated on a straight yoke which is covered by the bodice. "

Agnes No 9
" Am afternoon gown of beige crepe Elizabeth with matching silk lace. The transparent lace portion reveling tinsel ribbon bands on the underslip. The lace is used in full apron effect in the front and drops in a straight panel in the back. A twisted girdle of gold with jade beads makes a handsome ornament."

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