The Big News? Past Perfect Vintage Clothing makes Lulu's Top Ten!
Thank you to all who voted for us - it's a special day here at the ranch,let me tell you. Although I will not do my Academy Award speech. I am saving that for another day.
Vintage Fashion as Often as Possible
Jun 30, 2009
The Votes are In!
No,this is not about Al Franken.
The Big News? Past Perfect Vintage Clothing makes Lulu's Top Ten!
Thank you to all who voted for us - it's a special day here at the ranch,let me tell you. Although I will not do my Academy Award speech. I am saving that for another day.
The Big News? Past Perfect Vintage Clothing makes Lulu's Top Ten!
Thank you to all who voted for us - it's a special day here at the ranch,let me tell you. Although I will not do my Academy Award speech. I am saving that for another day.
Jun 27, 2009
Vintage Shopping: Buyer Beware Edition, Part 3
Condition Woes
In person: Look the garment over very thoroughly . Hold it up to light to see if there are any holes. If the shop is dark, take it to a window to check the armpits and shoulders. The two places to always check are the shoulders for fading and the armpits for stains. These are the most likely areas for problems. If the shop is both dark and has no windows then take the item to the door or reconsider shopping there. Serously. Bad lighting hides a multitude of sins and unethical sellers know it.
Online: Actually READ the description. Don’t just scan it. Ask questions. If there aren’t a lot of photos, ask for more. Don’t Assume. Flaws should be mentioned specifically. Check the Return policy - even a No Returns for Size Policy should have a caveat that the garment can be returned if it is Not As Described. Even honest sellers miss things. Phrases that should set off an alarm:
It’s In Good Shape for It’s Age
An Experienced Seamstress Should be Able to Fix This
Condition Ratings:
There are a lot of systems. Mint is Mint, i.e. Perfect to the point of Unworn. If an item is ‘Mint except for X, then it’s not Mint. Excellent is not Mint. It has been worn, or can have flaws so minor as to be unnoticeable. All the others, from Very Good to Good to Fair to Poor are very flexible these days depending on the seller. If the seller has a Condition Rating Chart be sure to read it. And be very careful about asking questions on anything that is rated less than excellent. If they don’t rate the condition - tread very carefully.
Special Warning Division: 1930s and 40s crepe dresses were dyed with fugitive dyes in many color ranges. The red, blue and purple are the worst for fading in streaks. The black tends to get rusty red. Be especially careful looking these over in good light. Net dresses need very careful inspection - there are usually holes in the full skirts. ‘Loose threads’ on a 1920s beaded dress most likely means missing beads. Theses can be quite difficult to replace.
Reproductions:
Once you have handled a lot of pre 1980s vintage, you will be able to spot a reproduction easily. In addition to the style and cut if the garment, the construction techniques, fabric and trims will tell you. What is now getting harder is that designers are copying the period looks even more wholesale than in the past. In the 1990s, I believe Givenchy did a new line that even used his 1960s patterns. The stores are full of 1970s maxi dress knock offs now. Knowing your fabrics, fasteners and labels will help.
There are a lot of 1920s - 1950s reproductions being made. And sold as just that - Repros. Nothing wrong about it at all and there are some very nicely done pieces out there. But these can get moved into the secondary market as Vintage. Be familiar with the labels and latest lines. That will help you avoid paying top dollar for a very nice reproduction. And use caution. If you find a garment in perfect condition that has all the earmarks of a period - i.e. a 1950s ‘bombshell’ style dress in a pink and black Atomic print with coordinating crinoline, and labeled Betty's Boop! beware. When a garment hits on all the cliches, it could likely be repro.
This is where knowing your dating and your details will save you.
Favorite Stories: 1) Attending an auction of Vintage Clothing that was described as “In Good Condition for Its Age“, which translated as a warehouse of dry rot, shattering and filth. It was a 10 hour drive round trip. 2) A Victorian reproduction costume I designed myself turned up in an Antique Mall that was labeled and priced as the real thing!
In person: Look the garment over very thoroughly . Hold it up to light to see if there are any holes. If the shop is dark, take it to a window to check the armpits and shoulders. The two places to always check are the shoulders for fading and the armpits for stains. These are the most likely areas for problems. If the shop is both dark and has no windows then take the item to the door or reconsider shopping there. Serously. Bad lighting hides a multitude of sins and unethical sellers know it.
Online: Actually READ the description. Don’t just scan it. Ask questions. If there aren’t a lot of photos, ask for more. Don’t Assume. Flaws should be mentioned specifically. Check the Return policy - even a No Returns for Size Policy should have a caveat that the garment can be returned if it is Not As Described. Even honest sellers miss things. Phrases that should set off an alarm:
It’s In Good Shape for It’s Age
An Experienced Seamstress Should be Able to Fix This
Condition Ratings:
There are a lot of systems. Mint is Mint, i.e. Perfect to the point of Unworn. If an item is ‘Mint except for X, then it’s not Mint. Excellent is not Mint. It has been worn, or can have flaws so minor as to be unnoticeable. All the others, from Very Good to Good to Fair to Poor are very flexible these days depending on the seller. If the seller has a Condition Rating Chart be sure to read it. And be very careful about asking questions on anything that is rated less than excellent. If they don’t rate the condition - tread very carefully.
Special Warning Division: 1930s and 40s crepe dresses were dyed with fugitive dyes in many color ranges. The red, blue and purple are the worst for fading in streaks. The black tends to get rusty red. Be especially careful looking these over in good light. Net dresses need very careful inspection - there are usually holes in the full skirts. ‘Loose threads’ on a 1920s beaded dress most likely means missing beads. Theses can be quite difficult to replace.
Reproductions:
Once you have handled a lot of pre 1980s vintage, you will be able to spot a reproduction easily. In addition to the style and cut if the garment, the construction techniques, fabric and trims will tell you. What is now getting harder is that designers are copying the period looks even more wholesale than in the past. In the 1990s, I believe Givenchy did a new line that even used his 1960s patterns. The stores are full of 1970s maxi dress knock offs now. Knowing your fabrics, fasteners and labels will help.
There are a lot of 1920s - 1950s reproductions being made. And sold as just that - Repros. Nothing wrong about it at all and there are some very nicely done pieces out there. But these can get moved into the secondary market as Vintage. Be familiar with the labels and latest lines. That will help you avoid paying top dollar for a very nice reproduction. And use caution. If you find a garment in perfect condition that has all the earmarks of a period - i.e. a 1950s ‘bombshell’ style dress in a pink and black Atomic print with coordinating crinoline, and labeled Betty's Boop! beware. When a garment hits on all the cliches, it could likely be repro.
This is where knowing your dating and your details will save you.
Favorite Stories: 1) Attending an auction of Vintage Clothing that was described as “In Good Condition for Its Age“, which translated as a warehouse of dry rot, shattering and filth. It was a 10 hour drive round trip. 2) A Victorian reproduction costume I designed myself turned up in an Antique Mall that was labeled and priced as the real thing!
Jun 23, 2009
Vintage Shopping: Buyer Beware Edition, Part 2
Secret Alterations
These are sneaky. Now let me be very, very, very clear. I am not talking about legitimate repairs. There is absolutely nothing wrong with securing loose buttons, sewing popped seams, re-securing loose trim, or stitching a loose hem. You actually should pay more for a vintage dress that is in ready to wear condition.
It’s the things that are hidden that I am getting at. Alters and repairs that should be disclosed and aren’t.
I have missed a few of these over the years. You just about have to turn a garment inside out to tell. And when I have missed them, I ended up giving refunds. So let my pain be a lesson. There were also repair techniques I was told were acceptable and standard that I later learned were not. So beware.
Hems - Has the hem been moved up or down? Always check. Let down can be reset to the original length, but shortened can be tricky if a crease line is there. Is the hem tape rayon? Or lace? Lace is most likely a replacement. Not all manufacturers used rayon hem tape, but is it an indicator. If the hem has been cut and permanently shortened, you want to know. And not pay mint condition price.
An ethical seller will tell you the hem has been altered. They will also tell you if it has been reset to the original length.
Buttons - Have they been replaced? Check the threads and the size. They should fit easily, but not too easily through the buttonholes. If original, the thread should generally match the fabric and should all be the same. If the buttons are the same, but some threads are different, it just means some have been re-sewn. This is not a big deal. You or your seamstress can stitch it in the correct color thread. The buttons should be appropriate for the garment - wash and wear dresses wouldn’t have breakable glass buttons.
Again, a dealer on the up and up will disclose if buttons have been replaced with period appropriate ones. The same with hooks and snaps.
Seam and Waist Alterations - Look inside skirt and waist bands - have pieces been added? Have the seams been let out or taken in? Again, something you want to know before you purchase. Not because it can’t be set back to the original if you want, but it will take time and money to do so. And if it’s been taken in, you may have permanent stitching holes that show. Now, as a wearer, the current size may be exactly what you want. I am just saying, you want to know.
Mended Holes - Oooh these get me. Look for small darts that have been taken to enclose a hole. Just a small seam on the outside shows, but the lay of the fabric will be wrong. Better for a hole to be backed with matching fabric with small stitches. As to fusing - I don’t like it, but some restoration people approve. Your choice. Just watch out for the nasty iron on hem tape - it can very damaging to remove and leaves residue.
Restyling - Oh , this is a Hot Topic. On the Pro side - reworking a piece can give life to damaged vintage that will otherwise be un-wearable and isn’t restoration or study worthy. The Con side - the design and style are permanently changed and it encourages the ‘restyling’ of perfectly good vintage dresses. Here’s the thing - all styles Come Back. Last year there were dealers cutting off maxi dresses into minis with the thinking no one would wear them at the long length. Now the stores are filled with 1970s inspired maxi dresses. Sigh.
Again, if a vintage garment has been restyled and reworked because of irreparable damage, an ethical seller will tell you.
Next UP: Part 3: Condition and Reproductions
These are sneaky. Now let me be very, very, very clear. I am not talking about legitimate repairs. There is absolutely nothing wrong with securing loose buttons, sewing popped seams, re-securing loose trim, or stitching a loose hem. You actually should pay more for a vintage dress that is in ready to wear condition.
It’s the things that are hidden that I am getting at. Alters and repairs that should be disclosed and aren’t.
I have missed a few of these over the years. You just about have to turn a garment inside out to tell. And when I have missed them, I ended up giving refunds. So let my pain be a lesson. There were also repair techniques I was told were acceptable and standard that I later learned were not. So beware.
Hems - Has the hem been moved up or down? Always check. Let down can be reset to the original length, but shortened can be tricky if a crease line is there. Is the hem tape rayon? Or lace? Lace is most likely a replacement. Not all manufacturers used rayon hem tape, but is it an indicator. If the hem has been cut and permanently shortened, you want to know. And not pay mint condition price.
An ethical seller will tell you the hem has been altered. They will also tell you if it has been reset to the original length.
Buttons - Have they been replaced? Check the threads and the size. They should fit easily, but not too easily through the buttonholes. If original, the thread should generally match the fabric and should all be the same. If the buttons are the same, but some threads are different, it just means some have been re-sewn. This is not a big deal. You or your seamstress can stitch it in the correct color thread. The buttons should be appropriate for the garment - wash and wear dresses wouldn’t have breakable glass buttons.
Again, a dealer on the up and up will disclose if buttons have been replaced with period appropriate ones. The same with hooks and snaps.
Seam and Waist Alterations - Look inside skirt and waist bands - have pieces been added? Have the seams been let out or taken in? Again, something you want to know before you purchase. Not because it can’t be set back to the original if you want, but it will take time and money to do so. And if it’s been taken in, you may have permanent stitching holes that show. Now, as a wearer, the current size may be exactly what you want. I am just saying, you want to know.
Mended Holes - Oooh these get me. Look for small darts that have been taken to enclose a hole. Just a small seam on the outside shows, but the lay of the fabric will be wrong. Better for a hole to be backed with matching fabric with small stitches. As to fusing - I don’t like it, but some restoration people approve. Your choice. Just watch out for the nasty iron on hem tape - it can very damaging to remove and leaves residue.
Restyling - Oh , this is a Hot Topic. On the Pro side - reworking a piece can give life to damaged vintage that will otherwise be un-wearable and isn’t restoration or study worthy. The Con side - the design and style are permanently changed and it encourages the ‘restyling’ of perfectly good vintage dresses. Here’s the thing - all styles Come Back. Last year there were dealers cutting off maxi dresses into minis with the thinking no one would wear them at the long length. Now the stores are filled with 1970s inspired maxi dresses. Sigh.
Again, if a vintage garment has been restyled and reworked because of irreparable damage, an ethical seller will tell you.
Next UP: Part 3: Condition and Reproductions
Jun 20, 2009
Vintage Shopping: Buyer Beware Edition, Part 1
In 30 years of buying vintage clothing, I have painfully found a number of the pitfalls. Let me share them with you, the dedicated buyer, and perhaps you will avoid some of the pain.
Dates
While clothing is actually quite hard to reproduce well enough to actually pass as Vintage or Antique, there is nonetheless a lot of misdated fashion in shops and stores, both brick and mortar and online. Ebay, Etsy, and almost every other online co-op are full of incorrectly dated items. So are shops. Some are so misdated as to be ludicrous. Many errors fall into the honest mistake category, some into inexperienced seller and some in plain Fraud.
How to avoid? Know what you are buying. Do research. Study fashion history before you invest. Comparison shop. If all you want is a cute wearable and the price is similar to what you would pay for the modern equivalent, fine. But don’t invest large sums blindly. I know that’s obvious advice, but people get taken everyday. Realize that some sellers are indeed experts, some are rank beginners who know no more than you do or even less, and many are knowledgeable in a specialty area, but may be at a loss in others fields. Buy books, read, go to the library. Ask questions. Take a Fashion History course. There are no shortcuts. The world is out there.
Watch For - 1960s hats sold as 1920s. 1950s hats sold as 1920s. 1890s -1907 dresses with gathers at the back misdated as 1880s 'bustle' dresses. 1950s Suits dated as 1940s War Time
Favorite stories: Two stand out: the plethora of 1950s hats being sold as 1920s Flappers hats on Ebay and the dress in a shop labeled ‘1880s bustle’ that was 1780s at the latest.Yep. 18th century.
Labels
Certain Labels add value. A LOT of value. That’s why unscrupulous sellers take them out of an uninteresting or damaged examples of a designer’s work and move them into a no name piece. It’s why dishonest drycleaners steal tags. Oh yes they do - it has happened to me. It’s called Fraud. And it happens online and in shops.
How can you tell? Sometimes by the way it’s sewn in. Sometimes by the location of the tag. Sometimes because it’s an outerwear tag in a blouse. Sometimes because the designer wasn’t even working in the time period the garment was made. Sometimes because it’s clearly not a style or design that designer would have done. Ever. Sometimes the dress is a cheap quality, and the label is too good for it.
What can you do?
At the drycleaners, tell them up front you know the label is there and you expect to see it when you pick up the dress. Take photos before you take it in. Make sure it is securely stitched in. And check your garment when you pick it up for the label. The difference bewteen a labeled and an unlabeled example from a known designer? In Sept 2008 Leslie Hindman sold 2 Versace patchwork dresses - same dress, two different colorways. Dress with label: $579, dress without: $219.
Purchase from reputable sellers who have been around and are trustworthy on other levels. Look at top labels with a critical eye. Study the designer, learn how they had the labels set in by looking at unimpeachable examples, know their career dates and what kind of work they were doing when. Know if they used different labels in their career and when the changes happened. Learn which labels are RTW, which are Couture, and which are from the dreaded licenses. And learn which went in different garments - for example, there was a run of men's tie labels showing up in dresses not long ago. There's nothing wrong with buying licensed or RTW - just don't pay for a couture when you do. That would be a shame. Start here: Vintage Fashion Guild Label Resource.
When you find a case of label switching just walk away from that seller. You can’t trust any label they have. Or much else they do.
Watch for: Any of the Haute Couture Houses, any of the big ticket American designers and the Hot label of the moment, such as McCardell and Ceil Chapman
Favorite Stories: a winter coat that had a Dior Chapeau label and a dress I sent to local auction that had a Saks label, then showed up at local booth with Tina Leser label instead.
Dates
While clothing is actually quite hard to reproduce well enough to actually pass as Vintage or Antique, there is nonetheless a lot of misdated fashion in shops and stores, both brick and mortar and online. Ebay, Etsy, and almost every other online co-op are full of incorrectly dated items. So are shops. Some are so misdated as to be ludicrous. Many errors fall into the honest mistake category, some into inexperienced seller and some in plain Fraud.
How to avoid? Know what you are buying. Do research. Study fashion history before you invest. Comparison shop. If all you want is a cute wearable and the price is similar to what you would pay for the modern equivalent, fine. But don’t invest large sums blindly. I know that’s obvious advice, but people get taken everyday. Realize that some sellers are indeed experts, some are rank beginners who know no more than you do or even less, and many are knowledgeable in a specialty area, but may be at a loss in others fields. Buy books, read, go to the library. Ask questions. Take a Fashion History course. There are no shortcuts. The world is out there.
Watch For - 1960s hats sold as 1920s. 1950s hats sold as 1920s. 1890s -1907 dresses with gathers at the back misdated as 1880s 'bustle' dresses. 1950s Suits dated as 1940s War Time
Favorite stories: Two stand out: the plethora of 1950s hats being sold as 1920s Flappers hats on Ebay and the dress in a shop labeled ‘1880s bustle’ that was 1780s at the latest.Yep. 18th century.
Labels
Certain Labels add value. A LOT of value. That’s why unscrupulous sellers take them out of an uninteresting or damaged examples of a designer’s work and move them into a no name piece. It’s why dishonest drycleaners steal tags. Oh yes they do - it has happened to me. It’s called Fraud. And it happens online and in shops.
How can you tell? Sometimes by the way it’s sewn in. Sometimes by the location of the tag. Sometimes because it’s an outerwear tag in a blouse. Sometimes because the designer wasn’t even working in the time period the garment was made. Sometimes because it’s clearly not a style or design that designer would have done. Ever. Sometimes the dress is a cheap quality, and the label is too good for it.
What can you do?
At the drycleaners, tell them up front you know the label is there and you expect to see it when you pick up the dress. Take photos before you take it in. Make sure it is securely stitched in. And check your garment when you pick it up for the label. The difference bewteen a labeled and an unlabeled example from a known designer? In Sept 2008 Leslie Hindman sold 2 Versace patchwork dresses - same dress, two different colorways. Dress with label: $579, dress without: $219.
Purchase from reputable sellers who have been around and are trustworthy on other levels. Look at top labels with a critical eye. Study the designer, learn how they had the labels set in by looking at unimpeachable examples, know their career dates and what kind of work they were doing when. Know if they used different labels in their career and when the changes happened. Learn which labels are RTW, which are Couture, and which are from the dreaded licenses. And learn which went in different garments - for example, there was a run of men's tie labels showing up in dresses not long ago. There's nothing wrong with buying licensed or RTW - just don't pay for a couture when you do. That would be a shame. Start here: Vintage Fashion Guild Label Resource.
When you find a case of label switching just walk away from that seller. You can’t trust any label they have. Or much else they do.
Watch for: Any of the Haute Couture Houses, any of the big ticket American designers and the Hot label of the moment, such as McCardell and Ceil Chapman
Favorite Stories: a winter coat that had a Dior Chapeau label and a dress I sent to local auction that had a Saks label, then showed up at local booth with Tina Leser label instead.
Jun 16, 2009
Before &After - Warning- A Non Vintage Post!
I hereby claim the blogger's prerogative to wander off topic.
Many people have written far better then I ever will about the benefits and joys of gardening.They go on and on. The fresh air, the satifaction of growing plants, the exercise. The fun of getting your hands dirty in the soil. Then there's the personal growth section. Peace of mind. And patience. And humility. Just try to make the sun shine, the temperature rise or the rain come. Those have certianly been lessons for me. Although the spring a rabbit in downtown Louisville ate every single plant that came up , it was a tough lesson.
But still, I garden. Now I have 3 acres to play with and I will never be done. And that is an apt metaphor for life, too. As is my sister's mantra: "All plants. All the time".
So here is the latest small project. This a problem area by the front walk, where it is partially shaded by a maple. No grass will grow here. We have seeded it 3 times , replaced soil, added organic matter. No grass. So it became a bed. We replaced the soil altogther, pulled out about 10 large roocks and added compost. Then planted purple coral bells, which have thrived under this treee in an adjacent bed, a flowering almond shrub,and pink flox along the edge that will spread and bloom in the spring by the door. This bed ties to a border that has pachysandra and the granite pedestal. And w eadded the concrete border at the side and driveway to keep the mulch in place and the rain water going down to the drain. Then we used contractor's grass seed in mulch. And it seems to be taking.
Mission accomplished. Now, maintenance.
Many people have written far better then I ever will about the benefits and joys of gardening.They go on and on. The fresh air, the satifaction of growing plants, the exercise. The fun of getting your hands dirty in the soil. Then there's the personal growth section. Peace of mind. And patience. And humility. Just try to make the sun shine, the temperature rise or the rain come. Those have certianly been lessons for me. Although the spring a rabbit in downtown Louisville ate every single plant that came up , it was a tough lesson.
But still, I garden. Now I have 3 acres to play with and I will never be done. And that is an apt metaphor for life, too. As is my sister's mantra: "All plants. All the time".
So here is the latest small project. This a problem area by the front walk, where it is partially shaded by a maple. No grass will grow here. We have seeded it 3 times , replaced soil, added organic matter. No grass. So it became a bed. We replaced the soil altogther, pulled out about 10 large roocks and added compost. Then planted purple coral bells, which have thrived under this treee in an adjacent bed, a flowering almond shrub,and pink flox along the edge that will spread and bloom in the spring by the door. This bed ties to a border that has pachysandra and the granite pedestal. And w eadded the concrete border at the side and driveway to keep the mulch in place and the rain water going down to the drain. Then we used contractor's grass seed in mulch. And it seems to be taking.
Before:
After:
Mission accomplished. Now, maintenance.
Jun 10, 2009
About Mr. Mort
I found this elegant little black dress one day in an unlikely spot. I also found a wool Thierry Mugler suit there, too. I won't tell where. Everything else was polyester. So you can imagine my delight when I actually felt good quality rayon tissue faille in my hands as I worked my way down the aisles. Then, I saw the metal zipper. Oh, good. Then the wrist zippers - another good. Then a label! Even better.
And that is one of the great things about vintage fashion. The quality. The labor. The idea that middle class women deserved value for the money.
1950s LBD @ www.pastperfectvintage.com
And that is one of the great things about vintage fashion. The quality. The labor. The idea that middle class women deserved value for the money.
Jun 5, 2009
A Bouquet of Davidow
I do the colors of Davidow suits. In a world where tweed generally connotates drab or subtle to the point of boredom, these tweeds are so wonderfully vibrant. Spring suits. Spring Coats. Remember those? All I see now are rain coats and trenchs.
I wrote this brief blurb for the www.vintagefashionguild.org Label Resource:
"Founded in the late 19th Century, the William H. Davidow and Sons company manufactured coats and suits. Eventually the business became Davidow, known for their tailored suits. Davidow suits were always wonderfully cut and made, using integral features of the fabric rather than applied detail. By the 1960s, they were producing copies of Chanel designed suits - a classic box jacket suit with straight skirts that could be found in better department stores across the USA."
But there is more. In business from 1880 - 1973, Melville and Archibald Davidow carried on the business and patented their unique front construction in 1942 as one way to conserve fabric during the war. Their Chanel copies were almost as good as the originals. In 1965 , they produced some 60,000 suits and ensembles a year according to the New York Times. In other words, these were Hot.
We bring you a bouquet of 1960s era Davidow Tweed Suits:
I wrote this brief blurb for the www.vintagefashionguild.org Label Resource:
"Founded in the late 19th Century, the William H. Davidow and Sons company manufactured coats and suits. Eventually the business became Davidow, known for their tailored suits. Davidow suits were always wonderfully cut and made, using integral features of the fabric rather than applied detail. By the 1960s, they were producing copies of Chanel designed suits - a classic box jacket suit with straight skirts that could be found in better department stores across the USA."
But there is more. In business from 1880 - 1973, Melville and Archibald Davidow carried on the business and patented their unique front construction in 1942 as one way to conserve fabric during the war. Their Chanel copies were almost as good as the originals. In 1965 , they produced some 60,000 suits and ensembles a year according to the New York Times. In other words, these were Hot.
We bring you a bouquet of 1960s era Davidow Tweed Suits:
Jun 4, 2009
Oh, to have SZ 7 1/2 Feet
I found four pair of wonderful 1950s stilettos. Here's the most recent pair added to pastperfectvintage.com.
1950s De Liso Debs in navy blue doeskin. Oh to have sz 7 1/2 feet again. But I was about 12 years old when I passed that size, and I seriously doubt my mother would have bought pointy toe stilettos for me to wear to grade school. Or anywhere else for that matter.
It's the line that is so appealing. Not the heel or toe, but the whole shape of the shoe. And it implies a lifstyle of elegance and perhaps even glamour. Never having to run. No time spent on concrete floors. Not standing all day to work for a living. Ah well. If you wear a 7 1/2 Narrow, you can have still achieve that feeling , if only for a moment.
1950s De Liso Debs available at www.pastperfectvintage.com
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