Featured Vintage: Adolfo and Flowers

Today's featured vintage find from Past Perfect Vintage is brand new on the website. This neat, neat, neat c. 1970 silk satin print skirt and blouse set is by Adolfo with beautiful blue flowers, dirndl skirt with tucks all round the waist and fur! cuffs. It's very well made, top quality, with a full taffeta skirt lining and self covered buttons. And it has the original Saks price (over $1000) tags. I doubt it was ever worn.

available at www.pastperfect.com/thedesigners.htm

And now, more flowers: a late 1940s deep navy crepe with tulips. What more need be said?

available at www.pastperfectvintage.com/the40sand50s.htm

A First Lady A Day: Michelle Obama!

from www.smh.au.com

Okay,I have avoided all other posts and assessments so far. So here is my own response.

The coat and sheath dress by Isabel Toledo. Wonderful color, bright and fresh and popped beautifully in both single and crowd shots. It was great on the screen, unique to the First Lady, and I loved that. Great lace texture and the gold shimmer gave it life. I thought it worked well in going from noon to early evening. Loved the green gloves and shoes. The whole look was just very now and polished without being at all cliched or over the top.

The Inaugural Ball Gown. Again, a polished look, very now, very soft and not at all a standard 'political' look. The chiffon was lovely, and when I could see the details in the bodice, a fascinating effect. Loved the one shoulder line for her - she can do it well. Beautifully accessorized. The pale color did get washed out by some of the very harsh spotlight lighting at a couple of the balls. She handled the train well, but I did get worried it was getting stepped on!

I really loved that Mrs. Obama went in fresh direction. No Satin. No Beaded Lace. No Red , no Blue. No long sleeves and Neckline Up to Here. And yet she found a look that was appropriate and formal and grand. Good deal.

And kudos to Dr. Jill Biden on walking Pennsylvania Ave. in spike heel boots and looking stunning in a red chiffon strapless gown. Fab.

And that closes out this series. We will return to our regular programming in a few days when I get some rest!

A First Lady a Day: Harriet Lane

The 2009 Inaugural Balls have started! So this installment will be brief. Harriet Lane was the 27 year old niece and ward of bachelor President James Buchanan. They had a rather good partnership, and she was highly thought of in the European capitials from his time there as an Ambassador. Harriet served as his offical hostess from 1857 - 1861. She was accomplished and polished beyond her years, enormously popular, and ended up living a full, useful and fascinating life. Check her out at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harriet_Lane

Her Inaugural Ball Dress:

from : http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/06339/743517-51.stm

Lovely. You will notice that Mary Todd Lincoln wore a dress four years in 1861 that was very similar, and I thought it was too youthul and low cut. The difference is age and situation. Mary Todd Lincoln was a mother and wife in her 40s. Harriet Lane was a single woman of 27. It makes a difference.

A First Lady A Day: Hillary

It has been fascinating to take a look back at Hillary Clinton’s inaugural gowns from the 1990s. I have gotten so used to the visual of her in tailored business pantsuits that it was a treat to see her 1993 and 1997 gowns again. There is a fascinating parallel between Mrs. Clinton’s and Mrs. Laura Bush’s Inaugural gown experiences. Both chose lesser known designers for their first gown and were criticized rather harshly. Then both went with well known established designers for the second Inaugural, and were wisely praised. Both went from a bright color ( blue or red) to a more neutral tone: gold or ice blue. It’s just interesting, that's all I am saying.

Now for the Dresses.

from www.smithsonianlegacies.si.edu : "Hillary Rodham Clinton's inaugural gown, 1993
This gown, a blue-violet beaded lace sheath with a mousseline overskirt, was created by the New York designer Sarah Phillips and made by Barbara Matera Ltd. Mrs. Clinton formally donated the gown and matching velvet coat, which she wore to eleven inaugural balls on January 20, 1993, to the National Museum of American History in 1995. "

1993. The Sara Phillips dress. I must say that at first glance, I couldn’t figure out what the criticism was all about, then I realized it was a beaded sheath with detachable over skirt. I am actually a fan of full skirts with a front reveal that shows a slim under skirt. But detachable? Did the designer think she was going to wear this again without the overskirt? I also wonder if it was a response to the beaded lace, which can go so very bridal so very quickly.

from: http://photo2.si.edu/inaugural/inaug/inaug.htm

But that was then, this is now. I like the full hem. Volume is a good thing. I LOVE the color. I must say , she looks fabulous in some photos such as this one. But not quite as as good in some close-ups. Her blond hair and complexion really show well. Call me crazy, but although I don't like the sheer overskirt ( better in an opaque fabric) I actually like this now. I give it an B+.

from www.time.com

from http://clinton4.nara.gov/WH/Family/html/inauguration1997.html

1997. Oscar de la Renta. Of course. Mr. De la Renta is a wonderful designer of grand evening wear. He does understand what is called for. So it’s a safe choice. This gown is rich, it’s elegant, it's simple and was much better received. Only my personal choice, but I do think blondes should avoid yellow and golds. They don’t set off the hair color. A-.

A First Lady A Day: Wilson, Roosevelt, Cleveland

from the Smithsonian Institute Research Information Service : “View of First Ladies Hall in the Arts and Industries Building, 1955, showing gowns of, left to right: Edith Bolling Wilson, Ellen Axson Wilson, Helen Herron Taft, Edith Kermit Roosevelt, Ida Saxton McKinley, and Frances Folsom Cleveland...”

As I have said before, the Smithsonian Institute Research Information Service Archives are a bit cagey about which if the dresses are actually Inaugural Ball gowns. After all, the tradition of donating the Inaugural Ball Gown to the Institution didn’t start until Helen Herron Taft. And many of the early dresses just don’t exist anymore. They truly are lucky to have as many examples of garmenst as they have, especially form the early years. And some First Ladies donated a gown other than the Inaugural Ball gown. and I just can't presume to analyze gowns from a dark B&W photo with some shown only from the back. So this post is really just for fun.

Some close-ups. The two Mrs. Wilsons, Edith Boling Gault ( second wife, Inaugural in 1917) on left and Ellen Axson Wilson ( first wife, died in office, Inaugural in 1913) in right . Edith, quite a the business woman and very much a force, and Ellen, very maternal, much loved.



Left to right, Edith Kermit Roosevelt , Ida McKinley and Frances Cleveland.
Edith - the perfect lady, tolerant mother of an active bunch of kids, and the one person Theodore Roosevelt was intimidated by. Inaugural in 1905. Ida, we already did. Frances - married Grover Cleveland in her early 20s, while he was in the White House, immensely popular, came back for second term, Inaugural in 1893. Outlived him by many years and remarried. Check her out - an interesting life. I can show you her White House wedding dress:

http://www.150.si.edu/150trav/remember/pres.htm : "Wedding Dress worn by Frances Folsom (1864-1947), on her marriage to President Grover Cleveland, 1886, ivory satin, India muslin, white mull"

Next installment: Hilary Clinton.

A First Lady A Day: Nancy

Well. Certainly a gal who loved her clothes. She generally dressed well for her figure, although more Hollywood than most First Ladies or political figures’ wives, that is for sure. She did love her red and her white.

That said - let’s do The Dresses.

Okay, she went for the white beaded column look both times. Both dresses are by James Galanos. She didn’t pay for the first one - it was a ‘loaner’ and Galanos donated it to the Smithsonian. The second time, she took a lot of grief for the cost of the wardrobe. Which is issue number one with the gown. How much it cost should not become a political issue. There she did not choose well.

from http://www.reagan.utexas.edu/archives/photographs/Inaugural.html

1981 - Lovely dress, but she is simply not rocking the one shoulder look. And the hair - I didn’t think this was Nancy Reagan at first. Really I didn’t. When she posed for Vogue in this gown in the Red Room, she wore white opera gloves and had her signature bouffant hairstyle, and I hate to say it because I am not a fan of that type hairdo, but the balance was better and the gloves helped a lot. But here - the bare arms, and the hair look unpolished. B.

from : http://www.reagan.utexas.edu/archives/photographs/Inaugural.html

1985 - Okay - Fabulous Dress for the occasion, appropriate for her age and body type. The quality of beading is superb , the long line is good and she covered up her arms. And she can wear white well. A+ less a half grade for the bad publicity A-.

A First Lady A Day : Nixon/Johnson/Truman Update

It’s only the 12th, and we have plenty of time until Jan. 20th, so thanks to the help of Vintage Fashion Guild members, I have full length photos of some of our MIA Inaugural dresses.

from www.time.com

Bess Truman 1949, Gala Dress. we saw this beofre, but it was a half length shot. I know that Time credits it as the Inaugural Ball gown, but the Truman Library says it's the Gala, and I am going with them. Some day I will find a good shot of the draped dark velvet Inaugural Ball gown. So far, I can only find it as a doll dress. And that doesn't count.

I stand by my opinion here. Tasteful, safe.

from www.time.com

Lady Bird Johnson, 1965 . The designer is John Moore, the dress is a "A-line gown in jonquil-yellow double-weave silk".
The bodice is the best part. I still like the color. The skirt is a bit boring.

from www.capitolfile-magazine

Patricia Nixon, 1973. I liked this better in black and white. Maybe it’s the quality pf the photography. But that blue is a little ‘baby’ for my taste. Half grade off.

A First Lady A Day : Barbara Bush, 1989

You will have noticed I am not doing mini bios on the more recent First Ladies. You know who they are. You may well remember what they wore.

I must say that Barbara Bush successfully presented herself as a soft, grandmotherly figure. I suspect there is a lot more steel in there than my grandmothers had, but hey. She was smart not to try to glamorize her look. The white hair, the fuller figure, the pearls. It worked for her. And after Nancy Reagan, she would have looked a little silly trying to go Hollywood.

That said - let’s do The Dress.

on the left, from http://online.wsj.com, on the right from http://www.capitolfile-magazine.com

from www.time.com

I must say I think this was brilliantly designed for her. The deep velvet bodice slims her torso by being so dark and soaking up the light. The diagonal line of the skirt - perfect for her figure. The color is great for her hair, the wide, open neckline brings the focus up to her face and balance the skirt. Well done, Mr. Scaasi. I really do think this was one of the best dresses she ever wore. And it works perfectly for the occasion. A+.

A First Lady a Day: Crete, 1881

Lucretia Rudolph Garfield definitely wins the Best Nickname of any American First Lady Award. Crete. I think that’s cool. A Very interesting woman. She was well educated, studying French, Greek and Latin languages and classical, British and French literature. She was an independent woman , a teacher and an intellectual. Crete was also a fine hostess, although not at all interested in publicity. She married James Garfield in 1858. He rose to Brig. General in the Union Army, then Congress then the White House. Their marriage survived an admittedly rocky beginning, although they eventually became close.

About 2 months after the March 1881 inauguration, she contracted malaria and was still recovering in July when her husband was shot. Lucretia handled herself and the White House with courage and grace during the 3 months Garfield lingered. He died in Sept.1881 and she went home to Ohio to a long and busy, although private, life. I beleive she preserved the records of his career, creating a veritable presidential libary in her home.

from : http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucretia_Garfield : “Library of Congress description: "Garfield, Mrs. James, wife of President Garfield" Source Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division. Brady-Handy Photograph Collection. Date: between 1870 and 1880 Author Mathew Brady or Levin Handy”

For more:
http://www.firstladies.org/biographies/firstladies.aspx?biography=21 http://www.whitehouse.gov/history/firstladies/lg20.html

Now - The Dress.

From the Smithsonian Institution: from the National Museum of American History: Back view, “Lucretia Garfield wore this gown to the 1881 inaugural ball. The gown's original color was a delicate lavender. It was dyed with fuschine, a light-sensitive synthetic dye that faded to oyster white. “

Front view, from the Smithsonian Institution Research Information System

It’s 1881, she is slim, dark haired and 48 years old. I would have loved to see this in the original lavender. The back is stunning. The front of the dress is overly complex by today‘s standards, a bit like a wedding cake, but in 1881, that was the style. The monochrmatic range saves it from being overwhelming. As I have said before, I am a fan of this era. A-.

A First Lady a Day: Laura Bush

Lizzie, our cohort in vintage fashion blogdom, gave us a shout out on her wonderful ( and top rated) blog, The Vintage Traveler the other day. She mentioned that we had not yet covered Laura Bush's inaugural gowns. Well, let’s have at it shall we?

from http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/1322353/posts

First up is the 2001 red lace Michael Faircloth gown. This is the most flattering photo I could find. The straight on shots, not so good. This didn’t go over very well. It’s not awful - it’s not even bad. The color is good. A very popular color amongst political women, that red. But frankly, it’s a bit matronly. I understand the desire to cover up - it’s January, it’s a formal state event, she‘s modest woman. But all this is really a basically boring sheath dress in red lace with a bit of hem flounce. B.

That said, all the fashion designers and writers go on about how the First Lady has a duty to support the American Fashion Industry. But as soon as one picks a designer that isn’t a Major Name, they have a cow. Look, American fashion exists in more places than NY and California. I give kudos to both Laura Bush and Hilary Clinton for choosing designers from out of the mainstream for their first gowns.

New York Times

Now 2005. This got rave reviews. It’s big name designer, so that always helps in the press. More than it should sometimes. I must say, I have seen a lot of photos of this gown while hunting for a good view. And frankly, it didn’t photograph as well as it should have. The line is good for her, and it is very elegant. The beading is superb. I understand it’s ice blue. And it looks lovely in this photo. But it looks like a dingy grey/white in an awful lot of photos. And that’s is not good. A-.

Rainy,Grey Tuesday and Mollie Parnis

We just can't be fair to the remaining First Ladies on a grey, rainy, dreary, cold January day.
So in a tangential feature to our First Ladies A Day series, here’s 3 Mollie Parnis dress and coat sets we have at available. Don’t they look warm and chic on a January day? Yes, indeed they do.

What’s the Mollie Parnis and First Lady connection, you ask? She probably dressed more First Ladies than any other. She started with Mamie Eisenhower and dressed them all until Betty Ford. And maybe Rosalyn Carter - but I can't verify that.

Her 1992 NY Times Obit

Ca 1960 Mollie Parnis Black Wool Dress Suit with Rabbit Collar, from L.S. Ayres at
http://pastperfectvintage.com

dated 1972 Mollie Parnis Cobalt Blue Wool & Black Persian Lamb Dress Suit from Saks 5th Ave Custom Salon at http://pastperfectvintage.com

Late 1970s Beige, Tan & Cream Mollie Parnis Dress & Coat Suit from Mary Ellen’s Couture, Memphis at http://www.pastperfectvintage.etsy.com

A First Lady a Day: Julia Dent Grant

from www.wikimedia.org: Library of Congress description: "Grant, Mrs. U.S. and son (Jesse) and daughter (Nellie) also her father Mr. Dent" photo by Mathew Brady or Levin Handy, ca 1865 - 1869.

After Ida McKinley, we need a Happy story. Julia loved being First Lady. She loved the White House. But she was always adaptable. She traveled to army camps, she moved to Illinois, she switched from Army life to civilian life and back again. She would set up a home with Ulysses Grant during the war at winter camp and consider herself snug and well provisioned in a 2 room tent. She supported him when he was little more than a dirt farmer. She stuck it out through thick and thin and he adored her. So there you have it. Happy family, beloved children, loved the Washington years. She brought organization to the White House, was the first to manage the publicity, was well liked by the public. It had been a long time since the White House had seen a happy, young family in it. She wasn’t the prettiest gal in the world, but she was lively and fun and a social favorite. She thought her husband was the best, and traveled the world with him for 2 and a half years after the White house. Despite terrible financial reverses later in life, Ulysses worked literally up until his death to finish his memoirs and provide income for her and the children. And he succeeded. Julia lived out her life in comfort until her death in 1902.
for more:
http://www.whitehouse.gov/history/firstladies/jg18.html
http://www.nps.gov/ulsg/historyculture/jdgrant.htm

So we have 2 inaugural balls, one in 1869, one in 1873. This dress is from 1873.

from the www.siris-collections.edu : “...Gown worn by Julia Dent Grant, wife of President (1869-1877) Ulysses S. Grant first lady of the White House . This gown was worn by Mrs. Grant at the second inaugural ball in 1873. It is made of white and silver brocade. A point-lace fichu around the shoulders was worn by Mrs. Grant at her first inaugural ball.”

from the same source: Julia's dress rear view at far right of photo.

Click though and you can get to the large versions of the photos. How pretty. Julia was 47 at the time, and was getting a bit thicker in the middle as we all do. The fabric is really lovely and the lace sets it off. Nice to wear something from the First Ball. I like the richness of the fabric with the simple skirt silhouette and simple bodice line under the lace fichu. In 1873, this gown could have had gew gaws, fringes and over drapes galore. It's lovely, grand without being pompous, Important without being Coronation worthy and appropriate for her age. Good choice. A fine, solid A.

A First Lady a Day: Ida McKinley, 1897 & 1901

This is a sad story. Poor Ida. She had a very difficult time of it. Her childhood and younger years were fine. But she lost both her children and her mother within in few years, and after that - she seems to have become very delicate both emotionally and physically. It is thought now that she had phlebitis and epilepsy. She certainly had seizures, some of them in public. She spent her days as a confirmed invalid. William McKinley took wonderful care of her, though. Made it hard for the other husbands in Washington at the time. In her photos she does look like a very well dressed doll. Tiny and very richly dressed, but stiff beyond even the conventions of Victorian photography.
The papers of the time never mentioned her illnesses, or her seizures, but just talked about her clothes. She spent her well time making endless crocheted slippers. When her husband was assassinated in 1901, his last words were about her - to be careful how they told her. Ida retired to her home in Ohio, was inconsolable and died a few years later in 1907. It‘s a sad story all together.
for more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ida_Saxton_McKinley and http://www.whitehouse.gov/history/firstladies/im25.html

First , a portrait because you probably don't know what she looked like:

from http://www.whitehousemuseum.org/: Ida McKinley sitting for a portrait, circa 1899

The second inaugural dress:

from http://siris-collections.si.edu : Ida Saxton McKinley's 1901 Inauguration gown

from www.imageenvision.com , ca 1901

I don't think this is the same dress, although it is awfully hard to tell. There are several more of her in formal gowns at this site - take a look. Ida was always richly dressed. It must have been her one consolation. She was small - petite and a 19" waist on some of her dresses. The only level I can grade this on is that she seems overwhelmed by the clothes - they seem to own her. All surface and not too much depth of personality, but she may have wanted it that way. I give her a B.

A First Lady a Day: Bess

Bess Truman was an intensely private woman. She has seen what the press could do. And she was having none of it. She had no intentions of being an activist First Lady like Eleanor Roosevelt. That was one hard act to follow. Bess was an active partner in Harry Truman’s career, she supported him in 1948 when no one thought he could win, she was a shrewd judge of character, and she even helped write speeches. But she did it all privately. Bess Truman came from a social world in which a Lady was in the papers only three times in her life: her birth, her marriage and her death. She would no more have posed in her Inaugural gowns for Life magazine like Eleanor and Mamie than walk on the moon. I believe she used Agasta, a Washington D.C. dressmaker who was tasteful and most importantly, discreet, for her wardrobe needs. Bess was not glamorous. She was a natural athlete, a fine tennis player, a baseball fan. And her husband adored her.

Now - Dresses!

It’s not easy to find photos of Bess Truman in her formal Inaugural gowns. There are many photos of her in a suit for Truman’s solemn 1945 swearing in at the death of Franklin Roosevelt. But at Truman’s 1949 Inaugural Ball- very few. I did find these group shots from the Truman Library website. Oddly, neither of these dresses is the one shown in the Smithsonian display photos in their online archives. hmm.

"The Truman Family at the 1949 Inaugural Ball. Date: January 20, 1949
People pictured: Mesta, Perle, ca. 1890-1975; Truman, Bess Wallace, 1885-1982;( second from left) Truman, Harry S., 1884-1972; Truman, Margaret (Mary Margaret), 1924-"

" Truman family at Inaugural Ball.
Date: ca. January 1949Mesta, Perle, ca. 1890-1975; Truman, Bess Wallace, 1885-1982; ( on extreme left) Truman, Harry S., 1884-1972; Truman, Margaret (Mary Margaret), 1924- "

"President and Mrs. Truman, Vice President Barkley, his daughter, and Margaret Truman at the inaugural gala in 1949. Date: January 19, 1949"

As to these: as best I can tell, nice formal dresses in good fabrics for almost any conservative middle aged, middle class woman of the late 40s. I would like to see more of the dark, possibly velvet draped gown. Looks like the same fur cape.

I give her a B. Nothing brilliant, but nothing wrong, either. She knew who she was.

Bonus Photo: Bess Truman in 1901 at the time of her high school graduation. How lovely.