A New Blog Arises!

Jonathan Walford, aka Kickshaw Produtions, also my friend and cohort at the Vintage Fashion Guild, has started a new blog. And it's a winner - superb photos, fascinating topics and a wealth of costume and fashion history information. It's new, but already a must read. See it here: http://kickshawproductions.com/blog/

And this gives me the perfect opportunity to say he has a new book out: Forties Fashion - From Siren Suits to the New Look. It's already on my Chrismas list. And if it's anything like his previous book, The Seductive Shoe: Four Centuries of Fashion Footwear, it will be a banner day when it arrives at my house!

Pirates of Penzance

Forgive me for the non vintage fashion topic. I may have mentioned that in my other life, I am a theatrical costume designer. My latest project has been the costume designs for The Pirates of Penzance for the Kentucky Opera Association in Louisville, KY. The show opened last week and my time has been pretty totally absorbed for the last 3-4 weeks. Hence this post about costumes rather than vintage clothing!

It's a great production - lively, fun and fresh. And the voices! Fantastic.

Here's a some of my costume renderings of the principals for your enjoyment. I'll post production photos as soon as I can.

Matthew Burns as the Pirate King

Michael Wanko as Major-General Stanley

Jamie Rose Guarrine as Mabel

Colm Fitzmaurice as Frederick

Natalie Krupansky as Ruth

1/2 of the Pirates

Heather Philips as Kate

Madelaine Krueger as one of the Daughters

Designer du Jour: Helena Barbieri

Now Helena Barbieri is not a one of the big name designers. You won’t find much on her online or even in design texts. She didn’t pioneer a new silhouette or change the direction of fashion. Like many talented designers, she seems to have been successful in a lower key way, but not ever really celebrated by the media. Indeed, all that is readily available out there online is her obit in the NY Times and the bio on the Vintage Fashion Guild Label Resource.

Yet there are these evening gowns running around that are outstanding . They are well made. They are colorful They are detailed. They were not cheap, at least not at Bergdorf Goodman! And they certainly spoke to a specific customer and showed a specific vision.

Sometimes the only difference between a famous designer and one known only to the cognoscenti is the quality of their PR firm and Ad agency. Remember, Ceil Chapman was just a designer of nice ladies 1950s cocktail dresses until a few years ago. Van Gogh died penniless.
Let that be a lesson to us all.

A small retrospective.

1950s Helena Barbieri chiffon & satin gown with Satin Stole

at www.pastperfectvintage.com

1960s Helena Barbieri strapless green crepe evening dress with chiffon wrap from the www.pastperfectvintage.com archives

c. 1950's Helena Barbieri ice blue satin beaded dinner dress from www.antiquedress.com

1950's Helena Barbieri celery & black taffeta asymmetrical gown from http://www.vintageous.com/

c.1960-70 Helena Barbieri embroidered silk gown from www.vintagetextile.com

1950s Helena Barbieri lily of the valley evening dress from http://www.divinefinds.com/

Oh So Stylish 1940s Millinery

1940s Hats were inspired. Maybe it was the war time restrictions on the amount of fabric in the clothing itself and the effect that had on garment design that put the emphasis on hats. Maybe it was the shift toward very tailored suits. Maybe it was the need to express femininity. Or even the need for a bit of gaiety and escape in time of war. Or maybe it was just a golden era of exuberant headwear.
Any way about it, 1940s millinery work is often striking. Abstraction, surrealism, realism - you can find all the movements expressed in felt, flowers and tulle.

This month we feature 5 1940s hats. All available at pastperfectvintage.com



1940s chocolate brown felt hat with realistic floral halo



1940s fuschia felt hat with surreal felt gingko leaves



1940s light olive felt wide brim hat with abstract shapes

1940s green velvet toque with veiling & whimsical pansies