Meditations on 20 Years in the Biz

I just realized yesterday with a bit of a shock that 2012 marks 20 years in the vintage and antique clothing business for us.

In 1992, we started with a 10" X 14" booth at the Art Deco Show in Indianapolis. We were not terribly sure of ourselves, but we made our booth rent back during set up, so that was a great reassurance. Later, we added the Elgin shows, then did vintage shows in Connecticut, Williamsburg, and Manhattan, plus main line antique shows in Ann Arbor and Louisville.

Then, like so many, we headed over to eBay in 1998. And then to our own website in 2005. And added etsy in 2009.

So after 20 years - have I learned anything? 

The landscape has changed a great deal. Items that were once super hot are no more. Fads come and often mercifully go faster. Items that were thought 'rare' turned out not to be once the internet disseminated the contents of closets and cedar chests across our computer screens.  Our customers that were once primarily from the north eastern US are now global. Everyone in the Vintage Fashion Business is so much more marketing savvy than they once were. Not just the sellers, but the buyers, too. It's all moved much Higher End and 20th century designer labels have become the standard. The internet seller can't rely on the old 'buyer beware' - ethical descriptions and depictions are critical.  Condition is still important, almost crucial. Sizes have gotten larger here in the US  - women and men are both taller and bigger than they were even 20 years ago. 

Brick and mortar shop still live on, thankfully, and great clothes are still great clothes. The days of antique pieces coming up in thrifts are pretty much over, but the whole range of shopping from estate and garage sale to thrifts and nice shops is still out there, and despite the conventional wisdom that the internet would close them all, I have seen a number of new vintage clothing shops open in this area and stay open. 

There still great finds out there waiting. I feel the need to go shopping creeping over me.............

A few of the beautiful things we acquired very early on, and then took forever to let go of:  

 1880s wine silk faille and brocade bustle dress

dated 1908 wedding set

 1920s green silk chiffon beaded coat and dress

 1880s green silk ottoman bustle dress with brocade panels

Resurrected from the Dead, Corset Division

 

I saw these amazing Before and After photos by Lei of Corsetsandcrinolines.com, and I just had to feature it here.  I have seen so many people turn up their nose at  antique clothing that is not in the best of condition for years.  And I have seen and been part of some amazing restorations. This is one of the best, certainly in the 'Dirt' category.

It takes a special person to see an item as filthy as this corset is to see the possibilities. But for Lei, this would have ended up in the trash, I am sure. And that would be a shame.

I asked Lei if I could share these photos and her techniques. They are not for the faint of heart, and indeed are not for the amateur. Lei  has been collecting and dealing in corsets since the 1990s and is truly expert in both dating and handling. And I recommend her Antique Corset Gallery as a gold mine of all things corset: http://www.antiquecorsetgallery.com/

Before

 

From Lei:

 "I acquired this c. 1905- 1907 corset from a builder who found it bricked up behind a wall in a house he was renovating. He said the house dated from the 1880's.

Here is the before pic of the corset covered in mould, soot and dirt from being hidden away for about 104 years....I had to vacuum it first as it made me sneeze when I took it out of the parcel. My vacuum has a "soft" setting on it so it doesn't suck as hard. Then I let it soak in detergent for wool in lukewarm water carefully scrubbing the dirt off of it with a sponge. I had to do this three times before the water ran clear. I can tell that the boning is watch spring which sometimes reacts with detergent turning the bone casings yellow which is why I decided to use a neutral cleaner like one for wool. It worked a treat. I made sure there wasn't any verdigris on the busk loops as I have had them break off when washed so you really have to proceed with extreme caution when a corset has verdigris.

Then I rinsed it off, towel dried it to prevent tide marks and let it hang out in the sun to kill any mould spores left and to bleach it. Once it was dry, I sewed the lace back on with silk thread on the same stitch line as it was originally sewn on, ironed it and put a ribbon in as the original corset lacing it had, was knackered." 

After

  

Amazing.

New in February: Vintage Hats

 

Way back on the 4th, I promised a post on the new hats at Past Perfect Vintage. Now that The Merry Widow at the KY Opera Association is opening tonight, I can at long last deliver a post!  And if you're in Louisville, Ky tonight or Sunday - go see the show - it's a wonderful production.

So what did we add to the website in terms of hats? Let's take a look: 

 

1920s Plumed Black Straw Hat in the Bicorn Style   

This very early 20 hats, is possibly late Teens - could be 1918 - 1923 or so. It's has a stylish asymmetric bicorn inspired shape with a deep crown and detailed surface scrolls.

 

Striking Pink Straw Jay Thorpe 1940s Hat    

Jay Thorpe was a very 'good' New York ladies store for many years.We haven't handled too many of their garemts and hats, but they were all of high quality and good design. I lave the simple yet very straking lines of this brim. 

1950s Hat of Gold Velvet Leaves    

 I admit 'leaf' hats from the 1950s are pretty common- but how often do you see this rich a color and in velvet? 

1950s Blue and White Pixie Hat     

Navy and white and cute as a bug's ear. There's a bit of turban influence in the crossover front band, but I believe Pixie is winning the style reference battle.

1950s Sleek Natural Straw Cap 1950s 

Classic. The cockade is 3 dimensional and detailed and all this hat needs with that sleek profile. 

Golden Olive Straw Beehive Turban  by Lilly Dache

The color is rich, the surface is textural and the silhouette is dramatic. Gorgeous hat and not for the faint of heart.

For more detail, photos and prices click: Past Perfect Vintage: The Hats and Accessories